Where to stay in Matera

The cave-city of Matera, Basilicata

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In 1998, Raffaelle and Carmela Cristallo bought up a string of homes in the Sasso Barisano, the more rehabilitated and residential of the two valleys, and converted the rambling property into the Hotel Sassi (Via San Giovanni Vecchio 89, tel. 011-39-0835-331-009, www.hotelsassi.it, €78-€90, from $67 online Reserve it ). Of the 22 rooms, only three are full-fledged caves, plus one other that's installed in an old cistern carved from the tufa. But even many of the more modern façade-rooms have at least one wall of honey-colored raw bedrock.

In the few rooms cursed by four boringly modern walls, at least you're distracted by the private balcony and its sweeping panorama of the Sasso Barisano, the buildings thrown into gorgeous relief at night by warm yellow floodlights set at their bases. You can even live like the Flintstones for $20 if you book a shared bed in one of the hotel's two hostel-like rooms (one with four beds, the other with sixteen).

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