Ristorante Umberto

A refined restaurant at trattoria prices in Naples

* Ristorante Umberto
Via Alabardieri 30–31 (two blocks behind the Chiaia park at the Santa Lucia end, near Piazza dei Martiri)
tel. +39-081-418-555
www.umberto.it
Open Tues–Sun lunch and dinner
Closed Mon and Aug 2–27
Bus: tram 1, R1, R3, C12, C18, C19, C24, C25, C28, 140 (to Piazza Vittoria)

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The Umberto offers a touch of class among Naples' usual minimalist eateries, with a restaurant atmosphere at trattoria prices. Waistcoated waiters bring you tidbits to nibble while you choose between a pizza or a primo of spaghetti alle vongole or pasta e lenticchie (pasta with lentils).

The walls are stark white, hung with antique mirrors and pictures. Cutting through the bustle and convivial chatter of satisfied diners are the folksy strains of a guitar player—no street busker but a restaurant fixture who belts out Neapolitan bel canto all evening long (it sounds touristy, but the clientele's largely Italian, and the locals even sing along sometimes).

Among the hearty secondi are impepata di cozze (peppery mussel stew), fresh fish, or involtini alla Umberto (veal wrapped around prosciutto and provolone then stewed in a mushroom-and-pea sauce).

There's a connected trompe-l'oeiled pizzeria in back if you just want to pop in for a quick pie.

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