Coco Lezzone

The perfect trattoria that's everybody's hidden secret in Florence

* Trattoria Coco Lezzone
Via del Parioncino 26r
tel. +39-055-287-178
www.cocolezzone.it
Closed Tuesday dinners and Sundays
No credit cards

Sights nearby
** Santa Maria Novella [church]
* Santa Trìnita [church]
Piazza della Repubblica [square]
*** Duomo group [church & museum]

Other places to eat nearby
*** Il Latini [meal]
* Cantinetta Antinori [light meal]

Hotels nearby
Hotel Tornabuoni Beacci [moderate-premier]
Hotel Bretagna [super-cheap–moderate]
Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni 1 [moderate-premier]
Albergetto Hotel [cheap-moderate]
Residenza Fiorentina [cheap-moderate]
NH Porta Rossa [moderate-premier]
Golden Tower Hotel [premier-splurge]
» More hotels nearby

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Coco Lezzone (Florentine for "dirty apron," after chef Corrado who founded it in the 1950s) is a cracked-tile-type joint where everyone from neighbors to the Florentine soccer team chows down.

It has managed the seeming impossible: remaining excellent and authentic over all these years somehow without become guidebook-famous (though judging by the photos on the walls, clearly international movie stars know to make their way here).

Now in its second generation of family ownership (Gianluca recently took over from his father, Gianfranco, who bought the place in the early 1970s), Coco Lezzone's kitchen still uses a 100-year-old wood-burning stove.

The cooking is rigorously, deliciously unreformed Florentine classical. The ribollita (bready, veggie stew/soup) is fantastic, as are the involtini (veal rolls). If you want a bistecca fiorentina, you have to order it a few days ahead of time.

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