Restaurants in Bari

Where to dine in Bari, Italy

Bari tourism information:
www.infopointbari.com
www.viaggiareinpuglia.it

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Da Margherita [€€] - Margherita's is a family affair where locals line up under stone vaulted ceilings for wood-oven pizza takeout or to enjoy full meals at sidewalk tables. The cavatelli ai frutti di mare (homemade pasta studded with seafood) are popular, but I prefer the orecchiette alla Barese (in a braciola sauce where a veal involtino is cooked in the tomato base for hours). Secondi are, of course, mainly fish—spiedino di seppioline (cuttlefish grilled on a skewer, a Bari specialty), scampi e gamberi arrosto (roast scampi and giant shrimp), baked catch of the day—or try scaloppine (veal scallop) cooked in lemon or white wine. Piazza Ferrarese 10–11. tel. 080-523-5852. Closed Wed and Sept

Taverna Verde [€€] - It pays to book ahead here since Bari families treat it as sort of a dining room away from home, filling the tables with three generations and lots of noisy chatter. Although there's a good selection of regional and national wines, a giant beer is the beverage of choice to accompany pappardelle alla taverna verde (wide noodles with tomatoes, mushrooms, and prosciutto), spaghetti alle cozze (with mussels), or orecchiette alla barese (they claim it's a ragù, but I'm hard pressed to find any meat). As a nice change of pace, they offer several light secondi such as an omletta al prosciutto or crostino di mozzarella al prosciutto (a log of alternating mozzarella and bread slices, toasted and topped with prosciutto). More substantial fare includes filetto di manzo al pepe verde (beef filet with green peppercorns) or the ever popular frittura di calamari (squid fry). Largo Adua 19 (on Lungomare N. Sauro). tel. 080-554-0870. Closed Sundays and August 14–24

Nuova Vecchia Bari [€€€] - It's a splurge, but one of Bari's best, and you can still eat reasonably if you go without the overpriced secondi. In 1971, a couple of veteran Barese restaurateurs created this space of studied medievalism, with stone vaults, wines lining the walls, and niches filled with painted ceramic plates (each from a different restaurant in an national network of traditionalist eateries like this one). Their seafood and veggie antipasti are famous; try the mix of greens, octopus, baby tomatoes, and scamorza baked in a ceramic crock. The chef conserves some of Bari's most traditional dishes, including tortiera alla barese (rice with potatoes, mussels, and zucchini) and strascinate al ragù barese (giant whole wheat orecchiette in a veal ragù). Under the same sauce come the veal involtini, or sample fresh fish or agnello al forno con patate (roast mutton with potatoes). Via Dante Alighieri 47. tel. 080-521-6496. Closed Sunday for dinner and 20 days in August

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