The street of Via San Gregorio Armeno outside the church is lined with artisan shops where craftsmen labor away at the figurines used in Naples' traditional presepi, or Christmas crèches.
These dioramas of the Nativity, which probably date back to St. Francis of Assisi in the 13th century but became most wildly popular here in Naples starting in the 17th century, are still an integral and important part of the Christmas season, assembled in church chapels and on piazze throughout Italy starting in November.
Presepi seem to concentrate more on finely studied figures of peasants and townsfolk than the Holy Family itself. Especially here in Naples, the backdrop is often a suspiciously Italian-looking Bethlehem, complete with Neapolitan pizzerie, workshops, all sorts of food shops (vittles are vital to any proper Neapolitan presepio), and the inns where locals carouse, occasionally joined by contemporary political figures.
The Nativity itself is stuck off in an unobtrusive corner building, which often manages to incorporate a crumbling ruin of a Roman archway so you know it's ancient Bethlehem.
Planning your day:It wouldn't take very long to walk through the marketplace, but you can wander and shop until you've had your fill.
Share this page
Search ReidsItaly.com
This article was written by Reid Bramblett and was last updated in June 2015.
All information was accurate at the time.
about | contact | faq
» THE REIDSITALY.COM DIFFERENCE «
åß
Copyright © 2008–2017 by Reid Bramblett. Author: Reid Bramblett
