Trattoria d'Oro

A good locals' joint in the heart of town in Lipari, capital of the Aeolian Islands of Sicily

Liparians really pack it into these wood-beamed and stucco rooms. They come for the prices, they come for the A/C, but mainly they come for the good food.

Spaghetti d'oro (with eggs, capers, and olives) is good, as are risotto alla marinai (rice studded with seafood) and the lasagne.

For a main course, there's lots of grilled fresh fish, including pesce spada (swordfish), ricciola (amber jack), or a good grigliata mista (mix), or try the cotoletta alla palermitana (breaded veal cutlet).

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