Osteria Fratelli Lo Bianco ★★

A cheap standby with tasty home cooking in Palermo, Sicily

This local bastion of shopkeeps and dock workers is a no-nonsense osteria of wood paneling, fluorescent lights, and wine on tap.

They hustle you to a communal table and Signor Barone bustles over to announce "We got ravioli or spaghetti," as if this were news after 100 years of no menu changes.

This is your cue to choose a primo, the ravioli in tomato sauce, the spaghetti alla ragù, a garlic-and-parsley carrettiere, or verdure veggie sauce. Service is fast and efficient; you might be in and out in half an hour.

The recited list of secondi might include a well-grilled trancia di pesce spada (swordfish steak), polpette of tiny, local fish, or a bistecca (steak).

If involtini di pesce spada is among the offerings, snap up these tasty swordfish rolls immediately.

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