Trattoria Ai Cugnai

Delicious food at the homey trattoria of the three sisters in Venice, Italy

** Trattoria Ai Cugnai
Calle Nuova Sant'Agnese 857, Dorsoduro
Vaporetto: Accademia (head east of bridge and Accademia in direction of Guggenheim Collection; on straight street connecting two museums, the restaurant is on your right).
tel. +39-041-528-9238
Closed Monday

Sights nearby
***Accademia [museum]
***Grand Canal [sight]
**Peggy Guggenheim [museum]
*Squero di San Trovaso [gondola workshop]
Santa Maria della Salute [church]

Other places to eat nearby
*Enoteca Cantinone Già Schiavi [snack]

Hotels nearby
Reid Recommends **Hotel Galleria [moderate]
Reid Recommends **Hotel Pensione Accademia [premier]
Hotel Palazzo Guardi [cheap]
Hotel Ca' Centopietre [cheap]
» More hotels in Dorsoduro from Venere.com
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» THE VENICE BOOKSHELF

I remember the first time I poked my head into this simple storefront and was practically dragged inside by one of the three exuberantly friendly sisters-of-a-certain-age who run the place.

Sure, the tourists have long since discovered ai cugnai (the name mans "at the in-laws," a reference to the three men the sisters married who ostensibly ran the place). It's pretty much impossible for them not to, seeing as how it lies precisely halfway between the Accademia and the Guggenheim (perfect place to take a break so you don't go into artistic overload).

However, the food is still delicious, the prices reasonable (for Venice) and the welcome as warm as you'd expect from a trio of Italian aunties, who act collectively as the chefs (one son/nephew helps run the dining room).

Try for a table in the tiny inner courtyard—ask c'è post fuori? (chay POH-sto FWO-rree?)—and dig into such cucina Veneziana classics as spaghetti alle vongole verace (spaghetti with clams) and fegato alla veneziana (liver and onions).

This isn't fancy food; it's comfort food, impeccably prepared. Any Italian grandmamma would heartily approve of the homemade gnocchi and lasagna —in fact, there's no way to have a bad meal with any of the daily homemade specialties under fatta in casa on the menu.

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This material was last updated February 2011. All information was accurate at the time.

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