Trapani trip planner
A vacation guide to Trapani, Sicily
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Trapani is a slightly seedy port city with a rich history and a contemporary reputation for being one of the most mafia-infested cities in Sicily.
It was founded by Erice as a sea port, but expanded by the Greeks, who named it Drepanon, which means "sickle" and refers to the curving spit of land forming a fishing harbor on one side (and modern shipping and ferry port on the other).
The Greeks had competing origin legends for the city: either Trapani was crafted by Saturn himself, the Titan father of the Gods; or the city is actually built atop the sickle of harvest goddess Demeter (Ceres), who dropped it distractedly here as she searched the island high and low for her daughter Persephone, recently kidnapped by Hades.
The majolica and decorative arts in Trapani's museum are worth popping down for, as is the Tunisian fishing village ambience that clings in between the baroque churches in oldest part of town on that hook of land. The fishy, Tunisian-inspired cuisine is excellent, though I'd try it for lunch and get out of Dodge before sundown; little Erice perched on the mountain above is a much more welcoming and friendly place to spend the night.
Tips
- How to get to Trapani by Train: There are 8-9 trains daily from Palermo (2-4 hr.). The train station is on Piazza Umberto I (tel. 0923-540-416)
How to get to Trapani by Bus: There's an AST bus (tel. 0923-21-021) from Erice at least every two hours (40 min.). Segesta (tel. 0923-20-066) runs 25 buses daily from Palermo (TK). Lumia (tel. 0922-20-414) runs 4 buses (2 Sunday) from Agrigento (3-4 hr.).
How to get to Trapani by Car: Take the A29 from Palermo, diverging onto the A29dir toward Trapani after you veer away from Castellammare del Golfo. From Erice, follow the signs for the scenic, winding road down. - Trapani Visitor Information: The main tourist office is at Piazza Saturno (tel. +39-0923-29-000; www.trapaniwelcome.it), with a second, city-run office in the Casina delle Palme on Via Torrearsa (tel. +39-0923-20-338; www.comune.trapani.it/turismo). It's open Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 1pm. Also try www.apt.trapani.it.
Where to stay in Trapani
Nuovo Albergo Russo - The hotel's 1868 origins show in the archways on the first two floors, and in the practiced hospitality of the owners—the same family for over 130 years. Lots of paintings and African carvings haunt the halls, while accommodations feature those decidedly uncomfortable Italian beds where you can feel each individual spring in the soft mattress and the cot sinks alarmingly when you sit on it. Still, the baths are fairly new, there are richly patterned rugs on the floors, and the location at the base of the main drag can't be beat. Rooms with bath have TVs and, at least in some, newer black-lacquered furnishings. The rest, along with the bathless rooms, have carved wood or veneered units. Via Tintori 4, 41100 Trapani (off Corso V. Emanuele). tel. 0923-22-166.www.infoservizi.it/hotels/trapani.htm. No credit cards.
More hotels in Trapani
» More hotels in Trapani (from €35)
» B&Bs in Trapani (from €30)
» Apartments in Trapani (from €55)
» Agriturismi (farm houses) near Trapani (from €65)
Where to eat in Trapani
Trapani's cuisine is influenced by fish (naturally) and Tunisian tradition, so the obvious main dish would be cuscus di pesce, with a fishy stew and broth poured over the wheat grains. One of the best, inexpensive trattorie to sample cuscus and fresh fish is Trattoria del Porto (da Felice), Via A. Staiti 45 (tel. 0923-547-822).
Pizzeria Calvino - It's easy to spot this place for all the Trapanesi spilling out the door, waiting for their take-out. These are the people who didn't reserve ahead a spot in one of the many tiny rooms opening off a narrow corridor where the hungry put up with long waits and snappish service for what is by far the best pizza in town. They have a menu, but you'll never see it, so just order a piccola (small) or media (medium; grande larges are fit for three) pizza with the toppings of your choice. The gooey, bubbling, thick-crust pie will arrive (eventually) sliced into bite-sized bits to be forked up aided by large bottles of beer. Besides pizza, they also do simply baked pastas and a few grilled meats like sausage and chicken. Via N. Nasi 77 (a street parallel to Corso V. Emanuele). tel. 0923-21-464. No credit cards. Thurs-Tues 7pm-1am.
Tips
- TK
Related pages
This material was last updated October 2009. All information was accurate at the time.
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