Fiaschetteria Beltramme (da Cesaretto)

An old hole-in-the-wall restaurant near the Spanish Steps in Rome, Italy

Fiaschetteria Beltramme (da Cesaretto)
Via della Croce 39 (four blocks from the Spanish Steps)
No phone
Closed Sunday

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Fiaschetteria refers to the flasks from wine was once poured, to be accompanied by a simple plate of pasta and roast meat. Little has changed here since 1886—but the menu's a tad longer now and the place has been declared a national monument. Cesare and his hardworking staff keep the lucky 30 or so diners happy in this hole-in-the-wall.

At lunch, businesspeople and workers line up to cram into communal tables under whirling fans and framed whatnot on the walls. Dinnertime is just as crowded but features more families and tourists.

The antipasto misto is good, as is the rigatoni al cesaretto (al dente pasta topped with arugula, cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, olive oil, and herbs). The secondi are traditionally basic, like bollito misto (mix of boiled meats) and abbacchio scottaditto (spring lamb so good it's name says you'll "burn your fingers" in your haste to eat it).

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Fiaschetteria Beltramme (da Cesaretto)

An old hole-in-the-wall restaurant near the Spanish Steps in Rome, Italy

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