Da Tonino

A near-perfect trattoria in Rome, Italy

** Da Tonino (Trattoria Antonio Bassetti)
Via del Governo Vecchio 18 (no sign; at the corner with Vico d'Avila)
tel. 333-587-0779 or 06-687-7002 or 06-241-693
No credit cards
Closed Sunday

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This traditionalists' trattoria's been satisfying a full house of Romans for three generations. Its name is Trattoria Antonio Bassetti, but everybody calls it "Tonino"—not that there's a sign to even let you know it's there; just beads hanging in a doorway from which emanate the sounds of Roman dialect and clinking plates.

It’s the sort of scene Fellini liked to film—a whitewashed room divided by a double arch, brown paint slapped on an uneven wood ceiling, paper on the tables, local antiques workers and shopkeeps squeezed elbow-to-elbow, and Tonino racing around by himself, keeping everyone flush with the staples of Roman cookery.

The menu holds few surprises but plenty of good, honest flavors: pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans); pasta all'Amatriciana (in a slightly spicy tomato sauce with guanciale bacon), alla carbonara (in a sauce of eggs, bacon, and black pepper), or al melanzane (with eggplant), ravioli; straccetti con rughetta (strips of beef with peppery lettuce); arrosto di vitello (roast veal); involtini (beef roll-ups); and polpette (meatballs).

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This material was last updated February 2011. All information was accurate at the time.

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