Favignana trattorie

Where to dine on Favignana, Egadi Islands, Sicily

Try to take at least one meal at the excellent restaurant at the Hotel Egadi—though book it as far in advance as possible in July and August, when the waiting list can stretch for a week or more

'A Cialoma
If you can't get a seat at Egadi, head up the block to this agreeable little spot just off the main piazza. For the restaurant (spaghetteria, really) you sit on the wooden roofed terrace; for pizza (evenings only) you get the softly-lit garden below—a genuine garden, with flowering vines spilling off the walls and tables set on the grass. (Of course, they'll also let you order dishes when seated below or a pizza when up above.)

The cuisine consists of tried and true Trapanese dishes such as spaghetti alla bottarga (with dried fish roe) or alle vongole or sugo di polpo (octopus sauce), and cous cous di pesce, which really constitutes a full meal. If you opt for a primo/secondo deal, follow up your spaghetti with a seafood main course like grilled fresh fish, swordfish, or, of course, tuna or the popular calamari arrostiti (roast squid).

Piazza Matrice 33. tel. +39-0348-293-6616. No credit cards. Open Wed-Mon 10:30am-3pm, 6:30pm-midnight. Open daily June 15-Sept. Closed Jan-Feb.

It ain't much to write home about, but the filling food and low prices make the Rais—named after the leader of the great tuna massacre festival—a fine place to while away the evening on the square just of the harbor, especially if you can sit on the terraces loaded with Italian families and annual island visitors.

Open with linguine al salmone (a light noodle dish with salmon), cuscus, or penne con gamberetti e panna (quill pasta mixed with shrimp in a cream sauce). Continue the meal with the typical local tonna alla griglia (a grilled tuna steak), fresh fish, or a cotoletta alla Milanese (breaded veal cutlet). In the evenings, you can order pizza all'Araba (with hot salami and anchovies) or, this being Favignana, tonnata (with tuna and onions).

Piazza Europa 8. tel. +39-0923-921-233. Open Wed-Mon noon-2pm, 7:30-11pm. Daily July-Aug.

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