La Torricella

A classic working man's osteria in the trendy Testaccio district

* Ristorante La Torricella
Via E. Torricelli 2–12 (at Via G. B. Bodoni, just off the Lungotevere a few blocks up from Ponte Testaccio)
tel. 06-574-6311
www.la-torricella.com
Closed Monday

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This ultratraditional Testaccio osteria is set in the echoey tiled rooms of what appears to be an old dock warehouse, with tall arches, local soccer team photos on the walls, and a die-hard crowd of neighborhood families. It ain't fancy but gets kudos for its genuineness and its heaping platters of true Roman classics.

Just about everything is delicious: spaghetti ai frutti di mare (with seafood), homemade gnocchi (on Thursdays), great rigatoni con pagliata, (pasta tubes tossed with tomato sauce and disturbingly delectable suckling calf intestines), and tasty bucatini all'amatriciana (hollow spaghetti in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, and guanciale bacon).

For secondo, you can't go wrong on impeccably prepared Roman classics like saltimbocca alla romana (veal layered with sage and prosciutto, sauteed in white wine, so good, according to its name, that it "jumps in the mouth"), abbacchio à scottaditto (roasted spring lamb, this time so good you "burn your fingers" in your haste to gobble it up).

They also do a good bistecca di manzo ai pepi verdi (steak in cream sauce with green peppercorns), and fresh sogliole (sole), spigola (sea bass), rombo (turbot), and other fish.

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This material was last updated August 2007. All information was accurate at the time.

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