Hosteria Romanesca

Best restaurant on Campo de' Fiori with some of the best amatriciana in Rome

** Hosteria Romanesca
Campo de' Fiori 40
tel. 06-686-4024
No credit cards
Closed Mon and Aug

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Want a ringing endorsement? I've lived in Rome on and off since age 11, and I still visit (or pass through) at least once a year for work. Nine times out of ten, this is where I eat lunch when I first arrive back in Rome (the tenth time would be when my hotel happens to be far away and my plane lands too late for me to make it here in time).

If you're looking to buck the tourists packing into the famous but much-declined La Carbonara but still want a seat on the lively, life-as-theater piazza of Campo de' Fiori, head to Armando and Enzo's little 110-year-old osteria.

It's the piazza atmosphere and well-tuned traditional dishes you come for, not the service, which sometimes seems nonexistent. (They work hard, but there are just too many diners for two waiters to handle. Plus, just like back home in New York, an amiable gruffness bordering on rudeness is part of the typical Roman character—see? It's actually a plus and a sign of authenticity.)

The wine is from the Castelli Romani, and dishes include favorites like excellent pasta all'amatriciana, flawless abbacchio scottaditto, and cervello d'abbacchio (fried lamb's brains).

In colder weather, you can retreat under the wood beams of the tiny interior.

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